What happened next?
Surprise, surprise: the next day we met out guide again with woodcrafts in his hand and foreign currency (from several countries in SE Asia) in our hands. A good exchange happened. “Now I have some inspiration to make some new Buddhist woodcraft, because the fucking government doesn’t do anything”. In the end I visited all the places from the Chinese brochure. Even more than that: Bhamo and Sinbu were two extra places off the beaten track. Very cool.
Exploring the north
This is pretty off the beaten track and we met here only 1 tourist in the entire week. The train journey to Mytikina was one not easy to forget. The feeling that the train can derail every moment and movements that used to be seen at ducks. It was all worth it, since the way down to Mandalay was with three boats on the Ayerwaddy River surounded by lush mountains and amazing gorges. The stop in a litlle town, Sinbu, was almost the end of the world. Friendly people showed us around and within an hour or so we had seen the place. Bhamo, the next stop, was the trading town of the north. We found Mr. Sein Win, who made his own helicopter, and he actually invited us to have a coffe at his house. Proudly he showed his helicopter. And luckily his wife came with the stack of old photos… Mr Sein as body builder. The old stories were nice too listen at. His helicopter is a symbol of freedom… at least the road to it. The helicopter hasn’t finished yet, the engine misses, neither is Burma free. His message was positive and to a free Burma. We might see Mr. Sein flying over Europe. Free as a bird.
Unfortunately the current situation is not as glorious. Bhamo is head quarter of the illegal trade between China and Myanmar, but this region is also the area were the army fights a brutal war against the tribal people. I didn’t really see any of this, but I did see the logging and transportation of the teak wood; another problem. Unfortunately some areas along the river are clear cutted, without shame even. The big G don’t seem to be bothered that tourist see this. The trip ended afer 7 tiring and beautiful days in the somewhat boring city of Mandalay. I would recommend everyone to go to the far north, so that money also flows to inhabitants in the more remote areas.
What about the rest of Burma?
Actually all of the rest of the travels took indeed place in the decribed places by Maung. Bagan was impressive and no other city can beat this surreal place with 4000 pagodas and temples dotted in a vast landscape. The daily sunrise and sunset felt like a dream becoming true.
Kalaw was my starting point for a three day trek to Inle Lake. During the trek I met the Shan and Kachin tribes. I got to know that the 20 year old teacher does not get get paid by the government. Her salary depends on donations of the villagers. I feel sorry for the teacher and the kids. And still they are so smiley and innocent. The future is hard if a government doesn’t give a sh*t about your life. Also the medicin man was a wonderful person. At his house I learnt that there is more than medicines; it is about sharing knowledge ad caring for other people. Depite these people don’t have lot, they do have a lot at the same time. It is their spirit and their smile. Never I’ve seen such a combination, but it stole my heart.
And yes: Inle Lake is cool too. At the time I visited the towns were mainly flooded; giving the best impression of living on the lake. The fishermen who dot the lake cathing their harvest in a sunset are unforgettable.
Hopefully I managed to take as nice pictures of the Golden rock and the biggest pagoda in Bago as in the Chinese magazine. Then at least you have the impression about what we are talking: it’s Burma!
This country was definitely a high light during this journey and I felt sad to leave the country after 28 days. Ladies and gentlemen: Go to Myanmar!